“Where prestige lives, safety leads.”
The fragrance industry sits at a unique crossroads of creativity, science, and regulation.
For centuries, perfumers have blended raw materials to craft scents that evoke emotion, memory, and identity.
Today, regulatory changes are not only shaping the safety and compliance landscape but also serving as a catalyst for innovation, challenging the industry to rethink how fragrances are developed and delivered.
The Transition We’re Facing
In the coming years, several key fragrance ingredients, particularly those in the floral family, such as lily of the valley, are expected to be reclassified as CMR 1B substances under EU regulations. Notable examples include p-cymene, cuminic aldehyde, and acetophenone when derived from natural sources, as well as heliotropin and tea tree oil. Under the EU’s harmonized hazard classification, these substances cannot be used in cosmetics or handled without restrictions.
“The growing number of classifications has become a significant concern for the fragrance industry,” says Charles de Lusignan, Global Communications Director at the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). “Ingredients with a long history of safe use risk facing quasi-automatic bans in cosmetics, simply because of their classification rather than an evidence-based assessment of how they are actually used.”
De Lusignan adds that industry consortia actively prepare and submit derogation dossiers to demonstrate that these materials can continue to be used safely. IFRA consistently emphasizes the importance of safe use, based on real-world exposure and sound scientific risk-based assessment. While these ingredients remain safe at current use levels, according to The Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM), regulatory compliance requires proactive planning.
Moellhausen’s approach is straightforward: when a raw material is classified as a hazard, it is removed from formulations.
Moellhausen responds to emerging classifications through an integrated scientific workflow that couples regulatory surveillance with rigorous analytical assessment. Once a candidate substance is flagged, cross-functional teams map its presence across formulations and quantify actual exposure levels using GC/MS, and impurity profiling. R&D then initiates a substitution program based on structure–odor analysis, physicochemical equivalence, and toxicological thresholds to ensure both olfactory fidelity and regulatory compliance. Updated safety documentation and coordinated supply-chain measures ensure a controlled transition without compromising product performance.
The Science Challenge: No Simple Substitutes
Replacing these substances is far from straightforward. Fragrance molecules cannot simply be swapped one-to-one, as their olfactory profiles interact in complex ways within accords and bases. A single component may affect significantly the overall fragrance, stability, and performance across multiple applications from fine perfumes to detergents and candles.
Moellhausen’s R&D team works meticulously to create substitute bases that reproduce the peculiar olfactory form of the original raw material while ensuring compliance. This involves rebuilding accords and testing their performance in a wide range of products, ensuring the fragrance experience remains consistent and true to the original design.
The Creative Challenge: Preserving Olfactory Identity
Creativity remains at the heart of Moellhausen’s approach. Reformulating a fragrance without a key floral molecule requires reimagining the scent while maintaining its signature character. For instance, reinterpreting a lily of the valley accord involves combining alternative raw materials to replicate its freshness and elegance.
The team’s process is iterative. Blends are continuously refined to achieve a balance between olfactory fidelity, product performance, and regulatory compliance through a multidisciplinary approach. The result is a fragrance that feels familiar to consumers but is fully aligned with modern safety standards.
The Future of R&D in Fragrance
At Moellhausen, R&D serves as both a safeguard and a driver of creativity. Regulatory shifts challenge the team to explore new materials, combinations, and techniques, opening doors to innovations that might never have been discovered otherwise. Innovation under regulation is not a limitation, it is an opportunity.
Staying abreast of regulatory developments is essential, but it can be challenging. As IFRA’s Charles de Lusignan explains, regulatory changes around the world do not always follow a predictable schedule.
“In the case of the IFRA Standards, it is somewhat easier,” he notes. “There is normally only one regular update to the Standards currently every three years which comes along with a consultation taking place before the Standards become notified so nothing should come as a surprise so long as the right steps have been taken.”
By anticipating legislative changes and proactively developing compliant alternatives, Moellhausen ensures its fragrances continue to delight consumers, inspire brands, and lead the industry forward.
Conclusion: Shaping the Future of Safe, Compliant, and Beautiful Scents
Moellhausen is uniquely positioned at the intersection of science, regulation, and artistry. By embracing change, the company demonstrates that regulation can be an engine for reinvention, not just a constraint.
As proudly emphasized by Dominique Moellhausen, R&D Director of the family-owned company: “The future of fragrance is one where safety, compliance, and creativity coexist harmoniously — crafted by highly skilled teams who turn every challenge into an opportunity for innovation. For Moellhausen, this is more than compliance; it is a commitment to shaping the next generation of scents that are safe, beautiful, and inspiring.”
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