Pitti Fragranze 2025. Artistic perfumery between global trends, new markets, and innovation
The latest edition of Pitti Fragranze, held in Florence from September 12 to 14, 2025, confirmed its role as an international showcase for haute perfumery.
As reported by Il Sole 24 Ore, the segment in Italy has reached a value of 450 million euros and is expected to continue growing, outpacing the dynamics of the mass market. The event highlighted a constantly evolving market, increasingly connected to global social and culturalphenomena.
We had the pleasure of interviewing Simone Lo Bue, perfumer at Moellhausen S.p.A., to gather his impressions and vision of a field in profound transformation, where creativity merges with market dynamics.
An evolving market: from creative freedom to olfactory trends
Q: Simone, what were your first impressions of this edition of Pitti Fragranze?
A: I noticed a clear shift compared to previous editions. Niche perfumery is becoming more accessible and aware of consumer tastes. While in the past each brand sought its unique identity, today we are seeing the rise of true macro-olfactory trends. This is not necessarily a bad thing. It’s a commercial evolution: artistic perfumery is becoming more selective than niche. It uses rare ingredients and deep storytelling but follows market logic to reach a wider audience. The real challenge for a perfumer today is finding the right balance between artistic expression and market demand.
Q: What trends did you notice the most?
A: The common denominator is the predominance of fruity, gourmand fragrances, and scents that evoke cleanliness and lightness. I saw numerous brands from all over the world presenting compositions based on notes like mango, vanilla, and musky accords reminiscent of freshly laundered clothes. The goal seems to be creating “positive” fragrances that deliver an immediate, joyful olfactory experience. This reflects a collective desire for fragrances that are not just ornaments but also bring comfort and well-being.
Gen Z, Asian perfumery, and new creative horizons
Q: What do you attribute this change to?
A: The main driving force is Generation Z. Their desire for direct and simple messages is reflected in perfumery. They are not looking for complex or philosophical stories behind a fragrance; they want a clear, immediate experience—like a mango fragrance that simply smells of mango. This has pushed the entire field to simplify in order to attract a new audience, one that may not have a background in artistic perfumery but approaches it through social media like TikTok and Instagram, where “easy,” impactful perfumes are highly successful.
Q: Beyond Gen Z, have you noticed the influence of other cultures?
A: Absolutely. We are witnessing the rise of Asian perfumery, particularly Korean and Japanese. Culturally, these countries have always preferred discreet, light, and clean fragrances to avoid disturbing others. This approach resonates perfectly with Gen Z tastes and is influencing brands worldwide. I saw Italian and French houses embracing these more minimalist, linear notes—such as tea, rice, and white flowers—that were hardly present in European perfumery before. This cultural exchange is enriching the market and opening new creative avenues. Another interesting and parallel phenomenon is the influence of Middle Eastern perfumery, which has made oud and amber nearly universal ingredients, once reserved for a niche audience.
Sustainability, new technologies, and the future of “true” luxury
Q: In addition to olfactory trends, has there been much discussion about sustainability and innovation?
A: Yes, sustainability is a key theme and was central to many stands. It is emphasized throughout the production chain, from growers to bottles. While this approach reduces the olfactory palette due to restrictions on raw materials, it also pushes perfumers to enhance innovative natural blends containing a “harmony” of natural molecules, creating a new form of beauty. At the same time, home fragrances and the wide range of products in this category—such as candles and diffusers—are becoming increasingly sophisticated. While personal fragrances tend toward simplicity, home fragrances are evolving into true “art perfumes,” with refined formulations and continuously developing technologies for waxes.
Q: How is Moellhausen responding to these new demands?
A: Many of our clients were present at Pitti, and their request is clear: they want to combine Moellhausen’s refinement and quality with new market trends. It’s no longer just about creating an olfactory masterpiece but adding a “twist” that makes it commercially successful. We can meet this demand, combining the excellence of our perfumery art with the ability to adapt to current consumer needs. At first glance, about one-third of the brands present at Pitti work with us, evidence of our role as a key partner in this evolving landscape.
Q: Finally, what are your expectations for the future of the fragrance field?
A: I hope perfumery rediscovers its original poetry. Today, fruity and gourmand fragrances almost act as a “medicine” for a difficult historical moment, bringing joy and lightheartedness. My dream is that, while respecting trends, we return to an art of contemplation—where perfume is a “surplus of beauty,” not a cure. The courage to not please everyone is, to me, the true essence of artistic perfumery. In this sense, Asia is paving an interesting path: rice and tea fragrances, for example, are simple yet incredibly refined and balanced. To me, this is creating art. French perfumery, on the other hand, while being a historical benchmark, needs to dare more—because the past is not necessarily better than the future.
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